Add the potatoes to a large saucepan, cover them with water, bring to a boil and cook for 20–30 minutes, or until tender. Drain and allow to cool before cutting into bite-sized cubes (1½–2 cm). Alternatively, use the Smashed Roasted Potatoes (p. 53) as the base for this potato salad.

In a bowl or deep jug, whisk together the yoghurt, chutney, lemon or lime juice, and season with salt and pepper. Pour this mixture over the potatoes and stir to coat without making mush of the potatoes.

Now begins the exciting layering. Place the potatoes on the base of a serving platter or plate. Next, layer the beetroot, cucumber, chilli (if using), red onions, dates, sweet potatoes (if using), sev, peanuts (if using) and, finally, the coriander leaves. Yay!

Serves 4–6

Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. When hot, deep-fry the capers for about 3 minutes, or until crispy. Remove the crispy capers with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

If using heads of broccoli, cut the heads into florets, using as much stem as you can shape into the floret.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and blanch the broccoli for 3–5 minutes (and no longer!). Have a large bowl of iced water at the ready. Use a slotted spoon to remove the broccoli florets from the boiling water and place them into their cold bath, thereby arresting the cooking process. Drain the broccoli in a colander. In a large bowl, toss the broccoli with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with a good squeeze of lemon juice, salt and black pepper.

If using, the edamame beans require only a brief submerging, 20 seconds, in the blanching pot, and the asparagus no more than 1 minute. Each green needs an iced water baptism to arrest the cooking process and retain the vibrant green hue.

To plate, spread the Tonnato sauce on a platter or serving plate, leaving a border large enough to frame your dish (and send a message about the delicious sauce beneath the greens). Arrange the broccoli on top of the Tonnato sauce and layer with the blanched edamame beans and asparagus, if using. Sprinkle the lemon juice and zest over the salad. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and season with Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Sprinkle the salad with the fried capers and toasted sunflower seeds. Arrange the rocket leaves in a heap on top of the salad so that you can still see all the lovely greens beneath.

Serves 6 with broccoli only or 8 with the other greens

The world has been bewitched by Lao Gan Ma Chilli Crisp. And well they may be! It is one of the most powerfully delicious things known to modern humans and can be bought in all Chinese supermarkets. Many have tried to replicate this mythical sauce. My attempt is super delicious (p. 129) and, with its own character, plays wonderfully with the raw vegetables, cut with care by you! Do not baulk at the role of celery here. It plays a confident and elegant part in this salad.

1. Bring a deep pot of water to a boil. Blanch the green beans for 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately immerse in ice water to arrest the cooking process.

2. Repeat the blanching process with the long-stemmed broccoli for (4 minutes) and the asparagus (1 minute). Cut all the blanched greens on a sharp diagonal, into 6 cm pieces.

3. Layer the blanched greens, celery and fennel on a platter and distribute the fried tofu on top. Drizzle with the Gochujang dressing and squeeze over the lime juice.

4.Season with flaked sea salt. Spoon the Walnut Chilli Crisp generously over the salad, along with the toasted walnuts (or peanuts). Garnish with the celery leaves.